Done With Diversity
“I was one of three brown women on my fashion course at Nottingham Trent University,” say’s Arooj Aftab, social activist, content creator and inclusion consultant. “Inclusion and race was never discussed during my education. Yes I knew I was having a different experience from my white peers.”
After discovering she had Neurofibromatosis at a young age, Arooj Aftab appeared in the BBC Newsbeat doc, 'My Tumour Made Me Trendy' which revealed more about her story and coming to terms with her condition. Since then been heralded by British Vogue and Elle for her work on her platform and won 2019's Asian Media Award.
She has since been a panellist for Instagram, appeared at Summer in the City and received support from Bustle, GUAP, Vogue Spain, Elle, Stylist and more. Reach Arooj (IG) @its.arooj
Image Emily Shanks (IG) @shanksdoesarty
“I didn’t want to fit in because I was looking for a wider experience with multi-cultural friendships. Socialising at university generally was influenced by a range of identity markers. My class for instance - I come from a small town in, Bradford, West Yorkshire. Did people see me differently? Was it my accent or perhaps my health?”
Then it dawned on me that my skin colour and my faith would influence everything
“So I worked with purpose and was labelled a ‘diversity,’ representative. I had a great time at college, I loved the projects and graduated with a first, ready to launch myself into work. Then it dawned on me that my skin colour and my faith would influence everything. That was when I realised, I had to navigate my own space.”
Graphics Arooj Aftab IG @its.arooj
“We need a fresh take on the Diversity and Inclusion conversation to explore the way terminology and language is used as a tick box exercise in the fashion industry. It’s what I talk about with brands to introduce opportunities for challenge and change.”
“Diversity...I heard that word so many times along with other words...Minority, BAME. C’mon, we are not a trend, or something to fix, we all need to rethink the language currently in use. True inclusivity...... real and meaningful conversation around so called diversity does not involve a tick box or a short-term interlude before returning to white-centricity as normal. We are not seasonal.”
“I’m specifically asking whether labelling us under the diversity banner is just another way to ‘other,’ people like me.” Arooj Aftab
Yes Ramadan means that my inbox will be full of requests. But where do these offers go after Ramadan has ended? Or why do potential clients decide I don’t fit their ‘type,’ as a brown woman presenting a race and diversity workshop?
These are the mindsets that still exist within commercial practice supported by language that needs to be evolved
One white client enquired about my heritage and was then confused because I had been ‘allowed,’ to become a creative as opposed to a doctor.” These are the mindsets that still exist within commercial practice supported by language that needs to be evolved.
In January 2020 Arooj launched #donewithdiversity. She tours and consults, encouraging brands and publishing platforms to rethink the language they use and to consider market spend together with their vision of future expansion. www.arooj-aftab.com
“Navigate your own space,” advises Arooj to listening students. “In community building we have to pivot at all times. I make it clear that I don’t speak for my whole community and that we are all unique and interconnected. I see it as my job to build a bigger space at the table.”
Member comments
TC Great presentation and yes the month of tokenism. I also think international women’s day although a way of highlighting gender is a similar nod to “diversity! “
DB The miss fit of what we are doing in university and the employability / industry
LM Amazing work Arooj, to think about the language we use and consider how we use it. Thank you, and yes, the tick box is meaningless unless the right questions are asked!
PM I was interested in how you said that Inclusion may be higher in importance than Diversity. What importance do you put on Equity? Diversity is aligned to a numerical impartiality which is problematic as it omits the sense of belonging that Inclusivity can bring. Equality I agree is vague as Black and white people are not starting on the same page. Does there need to be an interrelationship between all definitions and how do you think this is can be achieved?
Arooj Aftab - I agree Equality is non-actionable, equity is actionable. I start with brands by asking about departmental resources for support of new Black and Brown staff in a white environment. Where is the welcoming space for any person of colour and how will the brand make it clear that they understand what is needed for support and retention of this person. You can’t create diversity if you are not inclusive, and you can’t be inclusive if you are not intersectional. We go back to the tick box mentality.
MM Great talk and observations. The tix box, BAME etc I feel perpetuates the notion of othering
RZ Otherness, and the government’s move away from the use of the word “intersectionality” to “compounded disadvantage”
DB I think the class discussion is important too - especially with the current government
MK Intersectionality is such a powerful word; I still use it within many discussions it is a word defined and presented by Crenshaw. The government feels uncomfortable about the word as they want to own the language to define people
PM More on BAME here
PM This is a very insightful article here
RB Are we speaking into a culture that is too dense to hear what is being asked of them? Wouldn't society pay more attention if communities chose to find their own alternatives?
ADM Arooj, so right about the calendar dates 9/11, Ramadam ...We have to always be in mode of intelligent conversation and answers.
SL Great term - be on intelligent guard! Going to use that one!
AC I worked in Pakistan for 3 days in 2007 and since then I get stopped everywhere and cannot check in online if I am travelling to the US.
MK Language is such a problem at times deliberate without thinking to create unnecessary tension
DC Arooj, your experience is exactly why the fashion industry loses women who are black and brown because of the micro and macro aggression you have faced. You are one of a number of women I know who have left the industry to explore your own avenue because of racism. I hope we can change this.
BOA remember as a fashion undergraduate sharing session modelling an audible comment from another student stating that I had really big lips and it was difficult to draw! I bet they are now botoxing like crazy or have very mean lips!
SL Very conscious of being expected to deny my identity to fit in as a student, to be more acceptable to others. It was the constant minimising which was heartbreaking.
BOA Stopping the surface level of research and understanding of different cultures, races and heritage. Having more diverse staff would have a positive impact!
MK Facial hair created so many emotional issues with many Indian Pakistani girls, remember on numerous occasions supporting my sister in respect of their appearance.
KR Shout out to Arooj! Only 25 and crushing it!
AH As a student, I would love to have heard from Arooj especially when going to work within the forefront of media. In discussion with students, it is present that there is a language barrier in which we are fearful of misusing language and avoidance of these uncomfortable conversations and it is very present the divide between the Asian community within the class environment. I think it may be beneficial to integrate fashion with other faculties or more diverse speakers from industry. As a white student I am learning a lot from these conversations. Thank-you for your presentation Arooj
Text Caryn Franklin